0 Farm Delivery Friday, February 24! Plus a Bonus!

from back left, clockwise: portobello mushrooms, celery, leeks, chicken and vegetable soup, milk, carrots, onions, potatoes, roast beef, red lettuce, baby spinach, lettuce bag, cucumber, purple sprouting broccoli, lemons, parmesan cheese, pears, grapefruit, fresh buffalo mozzarella, cabbage, calabrese broccoli, sweet potatoes.  whew!

We've been in Bulgaria the past week, and so it was nice to come home to a fresh farm delivery.  

Plus, even though I managed to get more vegetables in my diet than in Budapest, 

it's nice to have some crisp delicious ones to cook my way- not greasy!

Like I'm sure you inferred, we just got home today.

We're tiiiiiired.  

We got up at 3 AM Bulgaria time (1 AM England time) to get to the airport.

Oh, and I've got a rant about Frankfurt International for you...

least favorite airport EVER.

But it was a great trip.

I'm already working on pictures-

and yeah, nearly done with Barcelona posts...

Believe it or not, this was a warm day!

This was on the balcony of our chalet- not a bad view, huh?
Despite the fact that it looks like we're in front of a really old Hollywood fake-mountain backdrop, we're actually in front of real-life Balkan mountains!

Do ignore my terrible self-timer expression... 

I didn't plan this picture taking in advance...

0 Seven Tips For Your Visit to Bulgaria

1. If you visit Sofia, do the Free Sofia Tour.  Not only do we recommend it, but it's the #1 Thing to Do according to Tripadvisor.  We had Kiril as our guide, and not only did he have excellent English (as well as a good handling of several other languages) but his passion and love for his native city really shone through.  I learned more about Sofia's history and main sites from his tour than from searching the internet both before our trip and at the hotel after the tour!

2. If you want to take pictures in a site or church, ask someone if it's allowed.  Many churches have "no photo"signs up, but if you ask the candle vendor or priest they will often allow it, for a small fee.  That said, please respect a site that maintains a "no photos" policy, and respect worshipers' privacy if you are able to take photographs.

3.  Try the local food at least once- it's a lot of heavy stews and hearty dishes (although I had a potato omelette), but not greasy or fatty tasting.  That said, the food is also very bland.  Compared to Hungary's heavy paprika (which I liked!), Bulgarian food is nearly tasteless- and this coming from someone who likes English food!  Every Mexana (tavern) has seasonings on the table, though, including a blended herb seasoning- using it helps the flavor appear!

4. Try doors.  Not homes, of course- but churches, sites, and governmental buildings.  The Presidential buildings had a courtyard that our tour guide walked our group straight through- and we saw the Rotunda of St. George Church.  None of the churches were visibly open, but we tried doors (or, in the case of the Holy Trinity Church, I waited and followed someone else in) and got in no problem.  Most of the buildings were shut and curtained in order to keep out the extreme cold, but they were still open to worshippers and tourists alike.

5.  Learn some basic Bulgarian words and phrases!  I checked out Lonely Planet's Eastern European Phrasebook from our library and post-it marked the relevant pages- and I used that thing constantly!  From basic salutations to social niceties, from numbers to directions, from ordering off a menu written in Bulgarian to asking if the traditional textiles were durable enough to stand up to everyday use and washing (yep, between the phrasebook and hand motions I got all that across- and an excited "da, da!" in return!), I used Bulgarian many times a day.  When I went out in Bansko alone one afternoon (more below) I felt more confident with the phrasebook in hand than I would have just fumbling with slow English and hand motions.  I found far fewer English speakers here than anywhere else we've been so far- but the Bulgarian people I met were also the most willing to listen to my stumbling attempts at their native language, and the most helpful when I tried!

6. This one isn't so much a tip as a comment- both Paul and I felt very safe in Bulgaria.  Walking around, asking for directions, even taking a bus (read: large van from the 1960s) from Sofia to Bansko with only the guidance of a little-English speaking woman in the middle of the rundown, edge-of-town bus station, I never once felt unsafe, at risk, or nervous. I also didn't have any qualms walking around Bansko alone- it is a small town, but even crowded with tourists I didn't ever feel uneasy.  Now, since Barcelona was our most recent trip, this could have been an over-reaction sigh of relief compared to the on-edge feeling I had there regarding pickpocketers and thugs.  That said, Paul and I did discuss it, and despite our joking that we could have been sold into human trafficking on that same bus/van (seriously, there were no roadsigns in English or with the Bulgarian writing for "Bansko" for over an hour!) neither of us felt anxious.  Plus we got to see Mannequin 2 on our ride- which we didn't even know existed (yeah, it was terrible).

7. As far as the outdoor sports go:  Bansko had some good ski runs (according to the skiers in our group, i.e. everyone except Billy and me!), despite the best ones being closed off for the World Cup.  That said, none of them thought the amount of time and effort it took to get to Bansko was worth it- the two hours of long, windy, bumpy roads it takes to get there from either airport (Sofia and Plovdiv) plus the cost of the flights and ground transport greatly compromise the affordability of the skiing.
That said, Sarah and I have both heard good things about the beaches of the Black Sea, and Bulgaria does offer a lot of off-the-beaten-path activities for hikers, campers, and other explorers.
One thing I was interested in seeing was the Dancing Bear Refuge, a sanctuary for former dancing bears located about an hour from Bansko.  Unfortunately, it's closed in the winter so as to encourage the bears to hibernate (they don't when they arrive, because they were never allowed to in captivity).  There are refuges scattered throughout Europe, and I'd love to someday volunteer or at least visit one.

0 Bulgaria: Urban Free-Roaming Stray Dogs and Cats

Like most of Eastern Europe and many Western European cities, Bulgaria has many stray dogs and cats living side by side with its citizens.  I expected them in Sofia, but they live in Bansko, too.  

These two dogs were in rare dry spots, out of the snow.  They lounged in a courtyard behind TZUM, Sofia's large department store. 

We saw this dog in a park whilst on our city tour.  I asked the guide if the dog was special, since he had a doghouse- the guide didn't know anything about him, but said he was surprised to see a doghouse, since most of the strays were disregarded.  

This was a stray who followed this pet dog around on a walk in Borisova gradina,  and they occasionally engaged in play wrestling.  I commented to Paul that I would have a hard time leaving a dog out in the streets (at all!) if he so obviously got along with my dog.   

I wondered many times, as we watched these dogs clamber through armpit-deep snow, what they'd done the previous couple of weeks, when the temperature was nearly -20º C.  We saw many homeless people sleeping their days away in the churches, tucked in a back pew, but the dogs and cats had no refuge that I knew of.  It made me wonder how many of the large snow banks were acting as coffins until the sun melted them away, uncovering the hard winter's victims.

A cat outside a shop in Bansko.

I saw this dog a couple of times in Bansko.  He lived on the main street, and was usually near this vacant lot.  

With this portly belly I'm guessing he gets a few leftover scraps from this restaurant!

Our resort had a few dogs that lived on the property (still as strays).  There was this female, two other dogs I am pretty sure were both males, and a longer haired dog who I only saw up near the road.  

I had mixed feelings about feeding them; on one hand it encourages their begging and scavenging, but on the other hand, where else will they get food?  Our food was going to waste otherwise, and clearly the dogs were fed by previous guests, so I gave in to my impulses. This female came by a few times, and I would set our leftovers/scraps down around the corner for her.  Our last morning I cooked up the eggs, noodles, and anything else we had left to feed to her.  She gladly ate them up.

She didn't finish all the noodle nests, and buried a couple in the snow- smart girl, to save some for later.

After a while, this one came over- this was the dog I'd only previously seen near the road.  She'd not ventured down as far as our chalet (at least when we were there), and was incredibly skittish whenever I opened the door.  I scrounged around, trying to find her some snacks, as I'd given most of what we had to the previous girl.  I tried a pear (Max loves them), but she declined.  I had some bread left, so she got that, as well as some yogurt.  Some previous tenants left some puffed rice cereal, so I soaked that in the milk we had left and she gobbled that up.  I was heartbroken over her, as she was clearly the lowest in the pecking order of our resort dogs, and seemed young.

I'm pretty sure if I'd had more time she'd be living with us now.  She worked her way into my heart in less than one hour.  I hope other guests are kind to her, and the other dogs.  

0 Bulgaria: Bansko

Billy was a trooper throughout our trip- despite the cold, being in a push chair, and not getting to touch all the colorful shop items!  He was most excellent at napping on the go- a perfect mini-traveller.

The courtyard of a Mexana restaurant, a tavern serving traditional Bulgarian food.

Old Bulgarian women.  These women were sitting outside of a different shop every day- but always in traditional dress and with stern expressions.   I took this shot paparazzi-like, over Sarah's shoulder- I am always reluctant to treat other people as though they are tourist attractions, even if I am being a hypocrite about it!

There were several antique shops, selling everything from old ski gear to communist uniforms.

The buildings in Old Bansko were much more traditional- in fact, despite being literally down the main road from the tourist area of Bansko, Old Bansko was practically a different town.

Sarah, demonstrating a snowboard-bench outside a gear shop.

Most houses in Old Bansko had walled and gated courtyards- the doors were quite simple but beautiful.

A fountain near an open community space.

The ice was beautiful with the hot springs bubbling through.

Another Mexana.

The wall on the left borders Holy Trinity Church. 

Sitting like a grown-up at our lunch diner.

I think this little guy is fantastic!

A car buried in snow in Razlog, the next town over.

0 Bulgaria: Holy Trinity Church, or Sveta Troitsa Bansko

Old Bansko's biggest cultural asset is its beautiful church, Sveta Troitsa, or Holy Trinity Church.  

The church is surrounded by a high wall, and the walkway is simply but beautifully decorated.  

The interior is beautiful.  It looks like the most elaborately decorated barn or auction house I've ever seen.

I wasn't sure if I was allowed to take pictures, but, remembering what our Free Sofia Tour guide said (most churches say no, but will allow it for a few leva) I worked up the courage to ask the lady selling the candles (after I purchased a few, as well).  I used my phrase book and said "How much for this?" and "May I take photos?" She smiled obligingly and said yes- no charge.  

I just love the detailing of the painting.

These seats/pews fascinated me- they are so structured, like individual thrones, but also lend themselves to the barn/auction house feel.

1 Bulgaria: Bansko Chalet and Mountain

 We stayed in a holiday chalet at Redenka Lodge.  We had a great holiday set-up, with a kitchen, living area, steam-room, and use of the lodge's indoor pool.  Since we were meeting some friends, Sarah and Bryan, and their two boys, Reece and Billy, the three bedroom/two bath chalet was the perfect place to stay.

The view from our balcony was breathtaking! 

 The last morning of our stay I decided we should take a picture!

 Since our chalet was located a few miles from Bansko and Bulgaria isn't too keen on plowing and clearing snow from roads, we were fortunate to find a chalet that came with a Land Rover Defender.  Much to Paul's chagrin, there was no power steering!  Between the roads being half snow and ice and the lack of power steering, Sarah and I were happy to let Paul and Bryan handle all the driving!

 The first day Sarah, Billy, and I went up the mountain in the gondola with the guys.

 I liked how this creek melted the snow.

 The view over Bansko.

 At the top!  We were there between the men's and women's Alpine Ski World Cup competitions, so some of the runs were closed to the public.  

 Gondola rest stop.

 Our last evening we were treated to a small parade, celebrating the start of the women's Alpine Ski World Cup.  These guys chanted as they went by- and smelled rather pungent. 

 Billy was clearly perplexed by the parade!

 I'm sure it smelled worse inside the costumes...

 These guys came next.

It was a small parade.