January 8, 2012

2 Back From Barcelona

We're back;
clothes are waiting to be washed,
souvenirs are set on shelves,
and Paul is passed out on the couch.

My birthday was fantastic, 
a day full to the brim with sightseeing,
concentrating mostly on the modernism
with La Sagrada Familia, Park Güell, and Palau de la Musica.

That evening we went to a fantastic Catalan restaurant, 
and then a flamenco show at the Petit Palau.

Tomorrow we get back to regular life,
running errands,
taking the pooches out,
me sorting pictures,
etc.  

Overall,
I highly recommend birthday trips.
Fantastic.

0 Seven Tips For Your Visit to Barcelona

1. Barcelona Card.  The city cards around Europe are a tourist's dream- not only for the discounts and the free or discounted public transportation, but for the additional locations and sites we find in the booklets that come with each one!  We were quite pleased with several of the smaller museums around Barcelona, particularly the Pre-Colombian Art Museum and Disseny Hub's design museum.  Disseny Hub consists of several museums, and the design one is just a few small rooms displaying several interactive science and technology based designs. We had a lot of fun going through, and it took less than an hour, so we didn't feel like we had to sacrifice any other sites for it.

2. This is one of the first things you'll read in any Barcelona travel guides, but be careful.  Petty theft and pickpocketing is rampant in the city, especially on the metro.  We heard a lot of stories from friends, and so were very wary our entire trip.  I saw one instance of two young men in a metro station- we were walking down the stairs behind them, and they were behind a woman with a purse hanging from her shoulder and a large kings' cake in her hands.  The youth closest to me held up his jacket, obscuring my view very obviously, and the one in front of him bent over- not for long, so I am assuming he couldn't get anything with her downward movement and her purse being closed.  I did stare at them the entire time (Paul says I have a staring problem, really I usually am just off in la-la land) because, as long as I'm not at risk of violent behavior (and everything I read said that there is very little violent crime in Barcelona) I don't mind being rather obvious- if you're aware of pickpocketers they won't target you!  The one who'd been bent over stared back at me for a while as we waited for the metro to arrive, but I didn't look away, and he soon did.  The woman got on the subway that we did, and the youths didn't.  Paul said he saw another incident where a man who was watching us turned around and began following us, until Paul made it obvious he saw him- then the man turned back around and walked away.  The crime seemed lower, as it wasn't high season for tourism, but, if you do go to Barcelona, please be aware, especially on the metro and in La Rambla.

3. Make yourself aware of public transportation.  Barcelona has a comprehensive metro system, and it's free with the Barcelona Card- which also means you don't have the added crime-victim time of standing at the ticket kiosks or digging in your wallet.  We took the train to Montserrat, which wasn't included with the Card, but wasn't very expensive (sorry, I don't remember the exact total), and it was really easy to figure out.  There are also funiculars and a cable car up to Montjuïc, the hilltop site of the Olympic Stadium and other prominent sites.   Taxis can be pricy and quickly add up in a city as large as Barcelona- so take advantage of the built-in transportation systems!

4. Here's a new one: we opted to try a new type of residence and booked our room through AirBnB.  This is a clever site which residents can use to let out a spare bedroom or their entire home to tourists.  It's often cheaper, plus you (hopefully) get a local's eye to your trip.  We stayed with Sonia, and she and Daniel were amazing hosts- helping us with little details like the train to Montserrat, the Modernisme Route map, and even helping us pick and reserve a fantastic restaurant for my birthday dinner.  Sure, hotels can offer these services, too, but we also paid under $300 for five nights in the L'Eixample district of Barcelona- a steal!

5. Take part in local culture!  We were lucky to be planning our trip over the time of the Day of Epiphany, and got to see the Three Kings' Parade and I got a Kings' Cake.  We also saw a flamenco show at the Petit Palau- the smaller (but acoustically equal) side venue of the Palau de la Música.  Sure, it's a little cliché, but I believe some things are cliché for a reason!
*side note- if you do EVER go to any type of theatre, please don't act like the gentleman sitting in the row in front of us and not only leave your phone ringer on but ANSWER it.  TWICE.  Paul and I assumed this was common knowledge etiquette by now, but apparently he didn't get the memo. Oh, and he was an English-speaking tourist.  I don't know who he is, but I'm hoping internet-kharma gets him.

6. Plan your time!  Barcelona is a big city- and has tons of things to do and sites to see.  We were there four full days and two half days and we still didn't get up to Montjuïc.  Barcelona is divided into ten districts, including the Old City and Gothic district, Ciutat Vella, L'Eixample, which houses many of the modernisme buildings, Barceloneta, with the beach, and many more.  Most of the districts are within easy walking distance, but some of the outskirts require a little more planning- like Park Güell, in Grácia.  Montserrat required an entire day, with the distance, seeing the buildings, and because we wanted to do a little hiking, and many people stay there for a couple of days to truly embrace the landscape.  All-in-all, I doubt you can ever have enough time on a trip to see all of Barcelona, but if you pick your "must-sees" and have general route-itineraries you can easily make the most of the time you have.

7. Being a dummy-head (I like mature insults), I just sat back and figured Paul's Spanish could get us around the city no problem.  I didn't learn any words, assuming random "por favor" and "gracias" could fill in when he wasn't around.  Well... Barcelona is in Catalunya, where they speak Catalan.  Many people there know Spanish (Castilian) and many know English- but the language to attempt if you want to show respect and be appreciated is Catalan.  Oh, and even if your brain automatically turns to German when you hear ANY foreign language, answering the man at the bakery with "Nein, das ist alles" is probably gonna cause a lot of confusion...

1 Barcelona: Architecture and Funny Bits

 Barcelona is best known for its modernisme architecture- but there are some other fantastic buildings as well.



 I couldn't figure out these eyeball-looking things.  

 Strange art?  World's biggest tangled wires?



 We walked through a park and these older gentlemen were just enjoying their morning.

 This is a candy shop called "Happy Pills."  You pick a medicine bottle and fill it with whatever candies you prefer.

 I believe this is some sort of mascot for Barcelona Football Club.

 Despite our hostess warning us that the water here is not tasty, people regularly drank out of and filled water bottles from these spouts all over town.

 This faded spray paint caught my eye- I couldn't tell if it was horses, monsters, or what.

I liked these signs- I believe they displayed the district.

0 Barcelona: Modernisme Architecture

Barcelona's modernisme architecture is obviously one of the cities biggest attractions.  The Ruta del Modernisme, or Modernism Route, is a great way to see the façades of the buildings while also seeing the city as a whole.  Our hostess gave us the modernisme route map, but the markers on the sidewalks helped keep us on track as well.



Casa Battló is one of the more famous modernisme buildings, along with La Sagrada Familia and Casa Milá.  We opted not to do the tour, as it was €15 each and, with the cost of each, we opted to do Casa Milá instead.  People were lined up outside everyday, though, so clearly it was popular!













The sidewalks in this area are almost all decorated- making it hard to keep an eye ahead of me whilst also looking up at the buildings and down at the sidewalk!



The street lamps were designed by Gaudí while he was still in school.  I couldn't get a great shot of them without walking directly into traffic, but I did appreciate the demonstrated use of the benches!



Paul's a big fan of rooftop cupolas.






0 Barcelona: The Crypt of La Sagrada Familia

The Crypt at La Sagrada Familia is where Gaudí is buried.  It is not included in the cost of the Basilica's ticket, but we went first thing Sunday morning and got in free.  (yay!)  A congregation was gathering for a service, but the crypt is small so we were able to see it and scoot out before feeling rude.

The architecture down here is much more traditional than in the Basilica, although features and elements still lean towards the modernisme movement.



A little bit gothic, a little bit strange, but very interesting!

Now this is a fancy door!

January 7, 2012

0 Barcelona: Casa Milá or La Pedrera

Casa Milá was designed and built by Antoni Gaudí from 1905-1910, with additional elements by Josep Maria Jujol.   A series of lavish apartments, Casa Milá is probably best known for it's roof elements. 
The tour was €14 each, which was pricey, but I was pleased with all that was included.

One of the ground floor doors.

The tour led us first to the roof, to enjoy the Whoville-like design.

Those green mosaic bits are broken glass from bottles. 


Barcelona skyline, including La Sagrada Familia.




The tour then continues to the attic where there a display of some of Gaudí's models.  It was interesting, but the next level's display apartment was much more interesting.  It is decorated in 1910s-20s fashion, but what struck my fancy was the wide, open spaces.  The apartment covers half of the floor, and the building is built around a central courtyard- so each apartment is roughly half a circle.  
The door to the display apartment.  

The doors inside the apartment are all either very wide or double pocket doors- allowing nearly half the living space to be opened up into one large, flowing area.  

This apartment actually interested me in Gaudí's design far more than his dramatic colors and striking organic shapes, as fascinating as they are.  I really liked the flow of the apartment, so it was a great additional dimension of Gaudi to me!
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